Louisiana

Louisiana who knew it existed? We thought Louisiana was just New Orleans but what a surprise we got once again. Because of the strong influence of French, Spanish and African cultures this state is considered exceptional in relation to other states in the empire. Our first introduction to this new state and area was the Acadian Cultural Centre. http://www.nps.gov/jela/new-acadian-cultural-center.htm A movie along with exhibits gave us a good understanding of the origins, migration, settlement of the people and the unpleasant treatment by the British in the 1700's in Nova Scotia.

We continued next to the Vermillion Ville Cajun/Creole Heritage & Folklore Park to see a re-creation of life in the Acadiana area between 1765 and 1890. The grounds are laid out as a historical village with some restored original homes, interpreters that demonstrated the traditional crafts and local musicians.

We discovered that Louisiana has some of the friendliest folk in the US. Our Canadian licence plate was confusing and the immediate impression was that we were French. The wheels kept moving and our next stop was St. Martinville, the birthplace of Acadiana. Unfortunately everything closed at 4:30 pm so we just had a brief walk around. We did find the Evangeline Oak; the most photographed tree in the World and the Statue of Evangeline; the Acadian heroine immortalized by Longfellow. A quick stop in St. Martin de Tours Catholic Church made us realize how modern American churches are compared to the much older European ones.

Second day in Louisiana was a short drive to New Iberia. We were not invited but happened upon a T.E.A. (Taxed Enough Already) Party. A local candidate was canvassing and we knew we had entered Republican territory. As we approached the crowds with banners I warned Don to keep all his comments to himself and we'd discuss later in the Moho.

I had watched politics on television but the live version is even more scary. I am grateful that issues such as guns, religion, gay marriage and abortion have all be dealt with in Canada and we can move on. Enough politics, we moved on to Victor's Cafeteria where the locals know a good thing. Atmosphere was much lighter and the most important agenda item there was enjoying the great food. Unfortunately we went for the famous crawfish pie but it wasn't on the menu for that day. Instead the hostess sold us a frozen crawfish pie with good instructions to savour later.

Next stop was Avery Island. This place is known for the great Tabasco Plant. Edmund McIlhenny knew a good thing post-Civil War when he decided to cultivate red peppers into the world known hot sauce. 700,000 bottles are produced daily and after touring the Plant we discovered it takes 3 years from the time of picking to bottling. The production includes storing the pepper mash in bourbon barrels which might account for the great taste. The McIlhenny family continue today to supervise all aspects of the process.

It was time to explore Louisiana's Northshore. We crossed Lake Pontchartrain via the 24 mile causeway. You don't want to run out of gas out there in the middle of nowhere. All I could think was you could almost run a marathon across this concrete structure but how boring with only water on both sides and nothing for miles and miles. We reached our first of two pre-booked park destinations, Fairview State Park in St. Tammany Parish. Louisiana has great State Parks which would explain why they are so busy.

The first physical activity was a bike ride on the Tammany Trace from Mandeville to Abita Springs. This was a 30 mile paved, flat old railtrail that was busy with runners, walkers, bikers and rollerbladers. We had a pitstop at the Abita Brewery where Don sampled the seasonal Abita Strawberry Lager. On we went to explore the Park trails and the introduction to the swamp where I spotted my first alligator in the wild.

The Tammany Trace became my favourite spot as I did a 10 mile run (the 1st since the NY Marathon) and a 30 km. bike ride. Don and Crocus also enjoyed the ability to let loose and crank out the miles.

Time to move to the big City of New Orleans; sample the cajun/creole cuisine and play sightseeing tourists. Our first tour was the Honey Island Swamp Boat Tour. It was 2 hours on the Pearl River as well as navigating deep into the bayou. The guide was excellent and could spot all types of wildlife from alligators, snakes, birds, frogs and lizards. He was a wealth of knowledge and gave us facts of the area pre and post Katrina.

Now it was time to slow the pace and wander the Garden District admiring the distinct architecture - grilled ironwork, ornate exterior moldings, Greek columns and stained-glassed windows. Many of the homes are still owned by descendants of the original owners. The streets had narrow sidewalks but were shaded with huge oak, magnolia and palm trees. The Garden District was first populated by the new Americans because they were shunned by the Creoles who continued to live in the French Quarter. No expense was spared when they developed their community which consisted of their own church, theater, cemetery, grand hotel and even a railroad. The pace changed once we took the St. Charles Streetcar into the French Quarter. No part of our travels could compare to the music, food, galleries or people that we encountered in the two days of the FQ.

It must sound as though all we are doing is eating and drinking but when opportunities arise to sample local cuisine we can't pass it up. From the cafe au lait and beignets to the grilled oysters, seafood gumbo, muffuletta sandwiches, shrimp etouffee, jambalaya and the rice/beans not to forget the hurricanes; we tried it all! Almost every establishment had live music either inside or on patios but the most impressive was a noon concert we caught at the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park where Jim Hession entertained us with his ragtime, stride renditions on piano. There was definitely lots of great talent in their small City.

So our two full days were busy and the entire time we kept our friends in mind; Ruby because it's your favourite City, Brenda because you've always wanted to walk Bourbon St., Brad because you would have loved the jazz, Jeff because your recommended gallery was an oasis from the hustle and Dave because your advice regarding the hurricanes was duly noted. However, it was that time again! Good-bye to Louisiana and hello Mississippi.

Texas

The initial impression of Texas was that there were many white double cab pickup trucks and lots of cowboy hats. People were friendly as everyone have been along our travels.

Our first stop was Fort Davis. This small town could be missed if you blinked but was rich in history. Originally it was a frontier military post with significant structures which laid along the Old Overland Trail (El Paso to San Antonio). With our fill of sightseeing in the last few days of New Mexico we decided to take three days in this sleepy town.

It was a good place to catch up on maintenance/cleaning of Moho and hike two great trails. The first was from our campsite at Fort Davis Mountain State Park; Skyline Trail where we climbed straight up and got great views of the Park as well as Fort Davis, 4 miles away. Thenext day we packed a lunch and hiked Limpia Creek Trail. From the top we got panoramic views as well as a forest fire approximately 3 miles in the opposite direction of Fort Davis. On the last day we decided to drive into Fort Davis to do a 10 km. flat run and tour the Fort. The run gave us the opportunity to see quite a few of the old buildings and the enthusiastic Ranger gave us lots of information about early Fort Davis during the second half of the 19th century and the "Buffalo Soldiers" who were stationed there.

Before heading out from the park we had a few visitors. Yah, the javelinas. There were three and they sauntered through our campsite. I now know why the big nose. They use it to uproot young plants in the ground and then proceed to eat them. They fed for a few minutes then wandered along to the next campsite.

Next stop was Big Bend National Park. Our 100 mile drive through the National Park to the River was very rugged, desolate and remote. The Park borders on Mexico and the natural boundary is the Rio Grande River. Big Bend offered opportunities to run, hike, bird watch and utilize the river for water activities. The ironic part was that the area was experiencing a heat wave with temperatures 10 degrees above the norm. So with temperatures reaching 39C or 103F, we moved slowly. We did a short hike along Boquillas Canyon where the river gave the illusion of cooler temperatures.

Along this trail we found mexican wares for sale as the Village of Boquillas is just on the other side of the river. Once a 300 person village depending onthe tourist trade of Big Bend the village is but 90 people since 2002. Homeland Security closed all border crossings in this area and the Mexican people were forced to re-locate to other areas. There was one sole, Victor; the singing Mexican. He placed a donation can on our side of the border and I guess sneaks across at the end of each day to pick up. His voice can be heard throughout the canyon. The other beauty of the canyon was the blooming cacti. The combination of high temperatures and a little water have allowed these dormant seeds to burst into bloom earlier than usual. Before leaving Big Bend we got up early, unhitched Moho and did a hike/run from Daniel's Ranch to Hot Springs. The 105F water of the hot springs was nice to soak our feet but the air temps were rising and we had to get back.

We were so glad we did not take the advice of people that told us there was nothing in Texas and just drive through. After arriving in San Antonio, we decided to stay a few days and divide our activities between the City and the surrounding hill country.

The first day was spent on a beautiful scenic drive which we called the 'barbecue trail". Thinking Texas was dry and desert like, we were very surprised to discover how lush, beautiful and picturesque the hill country was. We decided to make it a fun day and sample the "texas barbecues". Our first stop was Lockhart where we visited Smitty's for brisket and Black's for pork loin. Both were delectable. It would definitely be a challenge to keep the weight in check if we had this back home. It was good that they were samples and not full meals. On we went to Southside Market and Bar-B-Q in Elgin. Here we sampled Elgin hot guts with saltine crackers or simply sausages. Next stop was Taylor where the lineup was long and as we were not ready to eat we purchased chopped brisket in barbecue sauce for take away. We did try some texas ice cream - Blue Bell which turned out to be average.

Last stop but definitely our favourite was The Salt Lick in Driftwood where again we ordered brisket for take away. The aroma was so good it didn't make it off the parking lot. This thriving business was started by a husband/wife team who wanted a reason to remain in Driftwood. It has since changed hands and now a Sheriff has to direct traffic for parking. It was good that this "barbecue trail" took 11 hours to complete. Again, the scenery of well maintained ranches, long horned cattle, great looking horses and abundant spring wildflowers along the roadside added to our day.

San Antonio was definitely a worthwhile visit. The City was very inviting and we found lots to do and see for a day. Starting with a tour of the Alamo we learned the history and the significance of that battle in 1836. While the details of the siege are debated there is no doubt the symbolism of the battle. It was a struggle against overwhelming odds - the defenders holding out for 13 days against Santa Anna's army. We moved through the downtown core stopping for a picnic lunch at the Main Plaza which was reconstructed in 2008. We paid a visit to the San Fernando Cathedral to see the resting place of soldiers such as Davie Crockett, and James Bowie to name a couple. The El Mercado was the opportunity to purchase mexican goods or for us a chance to sample mexican sweets.

The highlight of downtown was the Riverwalk. A 5-km. walk with much to see. San Antonions have built this walk incorporating commercial, art and natural beauty. Water taxis are available but we decided to walk and work off the sweet calories. Before taking our bus back to our KOA we sat for refreshments and watched people strolling along the Riverwalk. Good-bye San Antonio but we think we'll be back.

Last day in this area was another driving day. We set out to view more of the colours of the Texas Hill Country in bloom. We were not disappointed. Our first stop was Fredericksburg, birthplace of President Lyndon B. Johnson, the Texas White House, the family cemetery and lots of exhibits and films about LBJ and Lady Bird. Also in town, at the Lady Bird Johnson Municipal Park we walked through meadows of bluebonnets and stopped to watch birds feeding along the nature trail. With over 700 historical structures in Fredericksburg we followed the walking tour where 30 significant ones gave us the historical flavour.

It was time to head back but we managed to make one more pit stop off our track. We discovered Luckenbach. It has maintained it's ghost town feel but it's country music association was still alive. It is a popular Sunday afternoon spot for musicians/song writers to take the stage and entertain passersby. The old post office, saloon, dance hall and general store were still in operation. It was great to be entertained but this week there was no Willie Nelson.

Last stop before heading into Louisiana was an overnight RV park a few miles west of Houston. Good-bye to Texas - we enjoyed our stay.

New Mexico - Northern and Southeastern

Our travels took us north to Albuquerque, the largest city in the state. This was a great opportunity to rent a car and explore the surrounding areas of Santa Fe and the Pueblo communities. Our first stop, Santa Fe - capital of the state, proved a great experience with the abundance of art galleries, fine architecture, historical attractions and of course good coffee. We did our traditional walking tour and strolled up Canyon Road that is designated a "residential arts and crafts zone" and went in and out of stores before stopping for a rest just off the Plaza to savour a coffee. Our little tour continued on to pay a visit to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The parish have commenced a project to create a garden with life style replicas of the stations of the cross. To date only three have been completed which we found enthralling and when completed this project will be an artist's masterpiece.

Next stop was San Miguel Mission, the oldest church in America and next door to the Mission was the oldest house in America. The Mission was quaint and contained a bell dating back to 1356. Before leaving Santa Fe we made a final stop to the New Mexico Museum of Art where Don found one of his favourite artists - Georgia O'Keeffe. There was a special reception for members of the museum so we had to wait around in order to access Ms. O'keeffe's work but there was much to see while we waited.

The next day took us to Albuquerque and the Old Town. First stop was the Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre where we just happened to catch some native dancing. The museum showcases the history and arts of the Pueblo people and gave us a better understanding of these people. We moved on to the Old Town where again we found natives selling their jewelry and trinkets. Albuquerque appeared to be more of a working city and lacking the cultural, art appeal of Santa Fe. However, we found a great little place for lunch where we sampled both sopapillas (fresh from the oven) and stuffed sopapillas filled with pork, beans, cheese and chillies. Continuing on our way we took the opportunity to drive Old #66 through Nob Hill. Evidence of old signage and even an old gas pumping station were visible. Great little drive through history.

Enough of the City touring, it was time to take a drive and see some of the northern Indian Pueblo settlements. The drive was scenic and took us through Valle Caldera National Park, an extinct volcanic crater, and two feet of snow on our way to Bandelier National Monument. This site offered us more examples of Pueblo villages as well as a great hiking loop trail through Frijoles Canyon. There were more kivas, cliff dwellings and finally Alcove House where we climbed 140 feet up wooden ladders and stone steps to see a Ceremonial Cave.

To view more on Bandelier visit this site: www.nps.gov/band

We stopped in Los Alamos for a coffee but there wasn't much to see as we could not enter the National Research Centre where the atomic bomb was developed. Earlier in our trip through New Mexico we had driven near Trinity Site where the world's first atomic bomb was exploded July 16, 1945. That site is only open to the public twice a year.

Time to return our rental car and move on south to Roswell where we hoped to find warmer temperatures. That we did, moving from freezing temperatures to high 20's. The town was a little of a bust with it's claim to fame being aliens and sightings of UFO's but we saw neither. We made a quick drive through staying only one night and enjoying the weather and peace and quiet of Bitter Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. Too late to see any significant birds as they've left for home but we did learn there are hundreds of varieties of dragonflies present in this Refuge.

Carlsbad was our last night before moving to the next state. One of our stops was the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens State Park. A botanical garden specializing in native species of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was not a typical zoo but instead animals are rescued and either treated and returned to their environment or they remain in the Zoo for care. A new animal we have to watch for in the wild are the Javelinas. They look like members of the pig family with big noses and lie around lazily. We had a great two hours exploring but again were a little too early and saw only a couple flowering cactus.

Our last stop was Carlsbad Caverns. A World Heritage Site since 1995, features a spectacular cave system. We followed the self-guided tour and entered at the natural entrance. It was a one mile trek down 750 feet following steep, narrow trails that early explorers would have completed. Along the main corridor we passed highlights such Bat Cave and finally reached the bottom or Big Room. Elevators can assist those not up to the physical walk down the trail.The Big Room measures 8.2 acres with lots of stalactites and stalagmites.

For more on the caverns: www.nps.gov/cave

So now we say good-bye to New Mexico and hello Texas!

New Mexico - Southern

New State....New Mexico

It is the fifth largest state in area (behind Alaska, Texas, California and Montana) with less than 2 million people. Our first destination was Las Cruces near the Texas border. It was an accidental find as we had enough driving and happened upon a good KOA with a good view. Not far from a small town; Mesilla, we visited for a day trip. This was a great opportunity to see a plaza, a mission-style church and lots of adobe houses, stores and restaurants. One little restaurant was Little Diner and Tortilla Factory on the border. The menu offered a full gamut of New Mexican cuisine so we sampled gorditas, enchiladas, tacos and great rice. A newspaper clipping on the wall touted the most famous visitor; George W. Bush, when he was Governor of Texas.

The next stop was Alamogordo where we visited White Sands National Monument. The park is 275 sq. miles of white gypsum sand dunes. This was an opportunity to hike on the sand that feels like icing sugar.

The roads are ploughed because winds can blow and cover the surfaces. At one point Don was driving and when he braked he forgot it wasn't snow.

The Alkali Flat Trail was a 7.4 km. loop with a view of White Sands Missile Range in the distance. Occasionally the Park has to close when they are testing experimental weapons and space technology.

Alamogordo also boasts the New Mexico Museum of Space History. We toured the faciliity which was an educational experience of space travel in the past and future exploration. We did find Marc Garnieau's picture hanging in the Space Hall of Fame. www.nmspacemuseum.org

We camped at Oliver Lee Memorial State Park and hiked up Dog Canyon Trail in the Sacramento Mountains. From the top we had a great view of the Tularosa Basin including White Sands National Monument.

The next day we visited Three Rivers Petroglyph Site which has over 21,000 petroglyphs left by the Jornada Mogollon natives over 700 years ago.

We travelled on to camp at The Malpais - Valley of Fires Recreation Area. It is the site of an ancient Indian legend that the "malpi" country was once a "valley of fire". This is true because the black lava covers 125 sq. miles and is more than 160 ft. deep at the

centre. A great paved nature trail gave us opportunity to explore. However, we have learned that weather in this area can change quickly. While hiking we were snowed upon and an hour later the sun was beating down and providing a wonderful warmth.

Off to Albuquerque tomorrow.

Tucson

It's been 3.5 months since we published a blog but we're back on the road and it's a little easier now.

What have we been up to? Well..... we left California to enter Arizona and made two stops in Tombstone and Bisbee before settling ourselves in Tucson for a week.

It was a great introduction to the Arizona lifestyle. We camped in Catalina State Park and took the opportunities to run,

bike and hike on the great trails in the Santa Catalina mountains. One of our first hikes was Romero Canyon Trail where you see Don checking out the saquaros.

A bonus to our stay was renewing acquaintance with Mary and Phil (running friends from back home). They are snowbirds who introduced us to some nice people, took Don for long bike rides and a great hike up Pima Canyon.

But Canada was calling. We stored MoHo for our 3 month absence and headed home to family and friends for Christmas.

Then January 4th came all too quickly and we set off on another type of adventure; Southeast Asia. This will be a separate blog entry with highlights of our exciting two month adventure. It was then back to Canada for a week with Kirsten/Jeff/Stella and Erin/Brad as well as a quick pitstop in Guelph.

We returned to Catalina State Park in Tucson to get reacquainted with the RV lifestyle. It is very easy to settle here as this picture from our RV indicates.

We've pledged to spend more time in Tucson in future years. However, ten days have past and it's time to move on as there is still a lot of country to explore. New Mexico is our next destination.

Joshua Tree to Arizona

Palm Springs, our planned stopover for a few days, ended up being a one nighter and source to gather supplies. Our RV site was very comfortable and folks very friendly (lots of British Columbia snowbirds) but the once very popular spot for weekend get-a-ways from LA LA land has seen better days. Of course, the sidewalks still have the "stars" cemented in their centres which we observed during our morning run. However, we were too young and had not had enough plastic surgery to warrant staying longer.

We both agree in our 4.5 months on the road that the most enjoyable stays have not been in the cities but rather away from the bustle. So off we escaped again, to Joshua Tree National Park. The Park contains parts of both the Mojave and Colorado deserts. We decided to camp at Jumbo Rocks famous for it's stacked boulders and picturesque joshua trees. There were no roadrunner sightings and luckily no rattle snakes either. The daytime temperatures were ideal for running and hiking though the nights and early mornings were quite cool. A memorable hike up Ryan Mountain (5461 feet or 1664 m) gave us great views and the cell coverage to leave a birthday message for my friend Diane. Time definitely slows down when we have no phone, internet, tv or radio distractions. After several days we needed to replenish our water and supplies so reluctantly we left our spot at Jumbo Rocks.

Indio, our destination to gather supplies was great. Temperatures were very hot and the RV Park was a resort with an inviting swimming pool and hot tub. We met some Californians who had just purchased a large "A" coach but had not travelled outside their own neighbourhood and were impressed to hear our tales. Next morning before heading out to "Slab City" we had a great 10 km run (my fastest in a year) through Sun City (a planned retirement community).

A description of the Salton Sea and Slab City (where we boondocked) that does it justice is hard to do with words alone. Hopefully the added pictures will help.

The Salton Sea is a saline, endorheic body of water which means water runs in but not out which in this case means polluted water in and increase saltiness due to evaporation. What was hoped to be a resort lake in the 60's in now a desolate area of boarded up motels, wrecked playgrounds, ramshackled trailers and shorelines of dead fish. Despite this it is one of the major wintering spots for birds. It was here at the Salton Sea in the Sonny Bono Wildlife Refuge that we finally saw roadrunners.

We dry camped at the Slabs. A de-commissioned World War II base now populated by a mixture of those who want off the "grid" either full-time or just wintertime.

One notable character is Leonard Knight who has been building his monument to God for the past 20 years. It is made of odd pieces of timber, hay bales, adobe and donated paint and aptly called Salvation Mountain.

Our final stop before leaving California for the last time on our trip was Quechan Indian Reservation. Our campsite here was just a short walk across the border to the small Mexican village of Los Algodones. So for American Thanksgiving we crossed the border to savour tacos, barbecued chicken, rice, refried beans, salsa, guacamole and of course cervasa. The village serves Americans and Snowbirds without drug or dental coverage. It has streets lined with dentists, opticians and pharmacies.

Arizona next.....

Baker to Big Sur

The new Nanna and Poppy are back on the road. It has been a little hard to concentrate with the distraction of our little treasure back in Canada. However, the internet is a marvellous tool and we get updates as well as pics to keep us going.

After arriving back in Las Vegas we picked up Moho who had a great rest and fine tune up and we headed west back to California. With jet lag and still feeling the emotions of our trip home we did not make it very far on the first night. Actually we got to Primm about 40 miles west of Vegas. The one and only RV park had closed and we resorted to a Casino parking lot with a few other travellers. I will add that we were too tired to spend a few quarters inside.

A good night sleep gave us energies to hit the desert again. We found an ideal camping spot with its own Ghost Town - Calico. Though it's population in 2001 was 8 people, at it's peak in 1887 it had 1200 and was a flourishing silver mining town. It also has a famous cabin constructed from bottles.

The next day was interesting driving as we passed Edwards Air Force Base (space shuttle's second home), 100's of windmills, California City (a planned city with paved roads and no houses that never quite made it) and Bakersfield (the end of the road for many migrants from the east during the depression) finally arriving in Santa Maria to commence the Pacific Coast Highway. We made a few pitstops along the way. The first being Trader Joe's (Don's new best friend and favourite supermarket) and Bubblegum Alley in San Luis Obispo. Bubblegum Alley is a narrow laneway and major tourist attraction where people have been sticking their chewed gum for many years.

We finally arrived in Morro Bay and decided to break for a few days as we try to stay off the roads on weekends. The park was small and the couple who were the owners were energetic and busily replacing most of the concrete pads with interlocking bricks. We took the opportunity to utilize the biking trails through town and did a couple of runs. The location was excellent in that we could stroll through downtown and along the waterfront boardwalk. There were many fish and chip restaurants but we opted for Giovanni's one night and purchased fresh fish from his market to cook ourselves on another night.

After four days it was time to move again and drive what is said to be "the most beautiful drive in the world" the Pacific Coast Highway section from Morro Bay to Monterrey passing Big Sur. It was indeed beautiful and the winding cliffside highway presented many views. The town of Big Sur was a little disappointing and in our opinion the entire drive did not match the Oregon Coast experience. We did not tour the Hearst Castle thinking it was not worth the $48. but took pictures from a distance and viewed the massive Visitor Centre outlining the contents of the Castle.

Before leaving the Coast we had a great RV park in Monterrey. It was situated high on a hillside in Laguna Seca Recreation Area adjacent to the Mazda Laguna Seca Raceway. We had fun watching the practice runs and the incredible speed of these cars.

On to Palm Springs..............